Honestly! It exists! Let me tell you more…
Before I trekked the Annapurna Base Camp trail I threw myself head first into chaotic Kathmandu, staying at the famous Kathmandu Guesthouse. Yes, the hotel’s grand history and links to well-known Everest climbers enticed me in however, don’t let that happen to you. A very busy hotel, old, small rooms, indifferent staff and average breakfast. Great location though in central Thamel (if that’s what you want), money changers, restaurants, endless rows of shops selling every possible piece of trekking equipment all around this hotel (there looked to be plenty of other options though in the same area, it would definitely be worth giving somewhere else a go).
Following my 11 day ABC trek, I wanted, sorry, NEEDED, some comfort and luxury, also peace and quiet; I just couldn’t face the thought of noisy, polluted Thamel (or walking ANYWHERE).
3 Rooms By Pauline or The Paulines appeared at the top of a Google search, can’t remember what I had typed in, who knows maybe ‘peace in Kathmandu’. Anyway, it looked beautiful, had fantastic reviews and for the quality I thought it was priced really well. Plus, the courtyard it was located within looked gorgeous and historical (I am an absolutely sucker for old buildings). So I booked it! Only for one night which I regret now.
I had spent two nights in Pokharra immediately after my trek in accommodation provided by Three Sisters, the trekking company I travelled with; in hindsight this was a mistake, post-trek exhaustion depleted my interest and effort in Pokhara, also the accommodation was fine but old and basic (warm water when I really needed hot). One night in Pokhara would have been enough and at a more luxurious place, followed by two nights back in Kathmandu at 3 Rooms, oh well, next time!
For a solo female traveller 3 Rooms, felt quiet, private and safe, the airport pickup was perfect and the staff incredibly friendly.
In fact, the lovely manager even took my remaining rupees into Thamel to change back into dollars, he offered to do this for me, amazing.
The Courtyard Room was my home for the afternoon, evening and next morning (they let me check-in early as well, a nice bonus). It’s a huge studio room, with a shower and a separate toilet at one end and the bed in the other. Excellent, hot power shower, I practically lived in this, a real treat after the 11 day trek and poor shower in Pokharra. The four poster bed was incredibly comfortable, in fact I had breakfast in it the next morning (breakfast is delivered to your room: bread, butter, jam, cereal and yogurt plus juice and hot drinks). I was delighted to see a cafetière and ground coffee provided in the room too, perfect for a coffee addict.
3 Rooms by Pauline is within Baber Mahal Revisited, a serene complex of shops and restaurants within narrow, historical passageways built in 1910. Opposite 3 Rooms, there’s an Indian restaurant and bar which does deliver to 3 Rooms (if your legs are really aching), I just took away a glass of sauvignon blanc in the evening, delicious. Chez Caroline is within the same complex, just around the corner, I greedily ate a three-course French dinner here, couldn’t be further from my Himalayan diet of momos and dhal!
If you plan to stay in Kathmandu after a tiring trek and you want a bit of peace, you’ll find it at 3 Rooms By Pauline, there’s no need to even leave your room; I guarantee you’ll have to drag yourself out of bed (or the shower depending on your preference) when it’s time to fly home.
wander with coffee 